How a Small Town in UP Is Bridging Cultures Through Ramleela

In Bakshi Ka Talab, a small town 30 kilometres away from Lucknow, the call of azaan (an Islamic call to prayer) echoes through the air. It is time for namaz, and Salman Khan bows down with devotion. He completes his prayer and dons his cap.

Interestingly, the adjacent area is abuzz with the rehearsal for Ramleela, where everyone is awaiting Khan’s arrival. Khan plays the role of Lord Rama. He takes the stage to act in a scene where he engages in a conversation with Lord Parashuram. In his opening dialogue, he says, “Shiv dhanush todne wala bhi, Koi Shiv pyaara hi hoga, Jisne aisa apraadh kiya, Wo daas tumhara hi hoga (The one who broke Lord Shiva’s bow, must be someone beloved to Shiva; and for doing such a thing, that devotee must be yours.)

For the past 51 years, the Ramleela in Bakshi Ka Talab has been breaking religious barriers, with Khan playing the role of Lord Rama.

This tradition was started in 1972 by the then gram pradhan, Maikulal Yadav, and his friend, Muzaffar Hussain.

In this Ramleela, Muslims perform various roles such as Lord Rama, Laxman, Sita, Janak, Dasharath, and many others. Just as Khan portrays the character of Lord Ram, Suhail Khan takes on the role of Laxman, while Farhan Ali portrays Sita. Bharat is played by Suhel Khan, and Sher Khan embodies the character of Janak. Even the role of young Ram is portrayed by Abdul Hasan.

Salman Khan has been part of this Ramleela for the last 12 years. And it has been seven years since he has been performing on stage as Lord Rama.

“When I wear the crown and dress as the king of Ayodhya, an aura of devotion envelops the scene. People feel that Lord Rama is physically present before them. Men, women, and children shower flowers and seek blessings by touching my feet. During these moments, people seem to forget my real identity and perceive me as Lord Rama. Experiencing this atmosphere fills me with a profound sense of divine happiness and makes me feel as if I have embodied Lord Shri Ram, a rare feeling, I may not experience elsewhere.”

“If people in a small town like Bakshi ka Talab can coexist with brotherhood and solidarity, why do some individuals attempt to spread hatred across the entire country,“ says Salman Khan, who is a gym trainer.

Twenty-year old Sahil Khan, a student, who plays the role of Laxman, joined the Ramleela when he was nine years old. “When I was a child, this tradition piqued my curiosity. Initially, I had started to play the roles of Bharat, Shatrughan, etc., but as time passed, I started getting more important roles, and eventually got to play the role of Laxman.”

Though he plays the role of Laxman, Sahil holds Lord Ram in unparalleled esteem. “Lord Ram was ‘Maryada Puroshottam’ (embodiment of the ideal man), who did not bat an eyelid before setting off on his 14-year exile in the forest, in pursuance of his father Dasharath’s wish,” he says.

Salman and Sahil together create an atmosphere that unites people in devotion, transcending religious barriers. “Religious tensions between Hindus and Muslims are increasing in the country, but when I am in Bakshi Ka Talab, none of that hatred is perceptible. My family and the audience have been nothing but supportive, showering all their praise and encouragement,” says Sahil Khan.

Thousands of people gather to witness this unique Ramleela. Sanjeev Shukla, 55, a resident of Bakshi Ka Talab, says, “When I was a child, my father used to bring me to watch Ramleela. Now I bring my son to watch it. We feel a great sense of joy that our god is being respected and played by the people from other faiths also.”

The director of this Ramleela is Mohammad Sabir Khan. He has been associated with it in various capacities for 49 years. He started directing Ramleela in 1990. “As a child, I used to watch Ramleela and longed to be part of it. Then I began this journey with the role of Jatayu and gradually started directing it.”

As Sabir Khan shares insights with this scribe, rehearsals are underway. He advises Salman Khan that his facial expressions should reflect Lord Ram’s calm demeanor.

“There was just one occasion when I encountered some objection  to my participation in Ramleela. That was when I got married, and my in-laws raised concerns. I invited them to see our Ramleela first hand, and that became a turning point for them as they watched thousands of people applauding and praising my performance,” he says.

This Ramleela has seen many interesting phases.

Videsh Pal Yadav, son of Maikulal Yadav, who was the founder member of Ramleela organising committee, shares an interesting anecdote. “Once, Ramzaan (the holy month of fasting for Muslims) and Navratra (a Hindu festival) had coincided. We were worried about how we would manage Ramleela because most of our Muslim artists would be observing Roza (fasting),” he recounts.

He said that none of them allowed their fasting to disrupt the smooth flow of the rehearsals.

He added, “On the final day, they [the artists] broke their fast (Iftaar) on the stage itself, just before starting the programme to ensure that there was no interruption in the performance.”

An old connection

In Lucknow, the tradition of a Muslim connection with Ramleela has deep roots. In the 1780s, Lucknow’s fourth nawab, Asaf-ud-Daula, donated 6 acres of land to establish a Ramleela ground in the Aishbagh locality, where the annual Ramleela has been held ever since.

According to Aditya Dwivedi, secretary of the Aishbagh Ramleela Samiti, “This is one of the most renowned Ramleela in India. It was started by Goswami Tulsidas in the 16th century. In the beginning, Sadhus used to perform Ramleela here. However, during the era of the Nawabs, many Nawabs began attending Ramleela, and they were so fond of it that they used to take care of the expenses.”

Even today, many Muslims actively participate in the Aishbagh Ramleela.

Syed Shamshur Rahman Naved has been the dance director of the Aishbagh Ramleela since 2006. He is responsible for choreographing the dance sequences throughout the 10-day-long ritual.

During a significant scene portraying the marriage of Lord Ram and Sita, an atmosphere of joy prevails as Sita holds the varmala (garland). In the background, the song ‘Shri Raghubar Komal Kamal Nayan Ko, Pehnaao Jaimaala‘ plays, and as Sita advances with the garland, everyone joins in the celebratory dance. Naved has played a crucial role in teaching the dance steps for this enchanting sequence.

“My Muslim identity has never been an obstacle. The Ramleela Samiti has always been supportive, even in the face of occasional criticism from some who question a Muslim’s participation in a stage performance of a Hindu mythological epic. But such criticism has never posed any hurdle.”

Naved takes pride in his association with the Ramleela performance. “Whenever I step onto any stage, there’s a special announcement for me, and that is a moment of great pride,” he says.

Not only in Lucknow but in Inhauna, a small town in Lucknow’s neighbouring Raebareli district, a Muslim family has been hosting a Ramleela and Dussehra fair for the past 156 years. In 1867, the local talukdar, Chaudhary Sharfuddin, started a Dussehra fair with Ramleela as its central attraction. Today, the sixth generation of Sharfuddin continues the legacy, established by their ancestors. The fair is organised under the patronage of Sharfuddin’s descendants, Chaudhary Wahaj Akhtar and Chaudhary Mohd Shuja.

While members of the Chaudhary family have dispersed across the globe, residing in different parts from Dubai to Mumbai, Delhi to Lucknow, when it comes to Dussehra, they all reunite in Inhauna, regardless of their locations, to celebrate and manage the Dussehra fair and Ramleela, every year.

“The response to the Dussehra fair is tremendous; it is eagerly awaited, and people count the days throughout the year. Both Hindu and Muslim families attend the fair in large numbers. Even Muslim women, wearing burqas, attend our Ramleela with their families,” says Chaudhary Mohd Shuja, a current scion of this family.

“The idea of organising this fair and Ramleela is nothing extraordinary. It comes naturally to us and is an integral part of our family tradition which is part of the unique ‘Ganga-Jamuni’ culture of this Avadh region. Even this year’s Ramleela has eight of the 15 roles being played by Muslims on stage,” says Mohd Shuja.