As children growing up under apartheid next to the sea in Durban, many generations of Indians only reluctantly stepped into its waves. Denied access to most of the pristine beaches, many of us never learnt to swim.
But perched above the waves as the city is, there was no escaping either the sea in Durban, or the humid fetor it gave off. The sea was what had brought us to South Africa, but it is also what separated us from our historic homeland.
The nearly one million Indians had been in the land since the mid 19th century, brought here as indentured labour or migrated as ‘passengers’ of their own volition to explore opportunities.
They were cut off for generations, after India broke diplomatic relations with South Africa after the introduction of Apartheid in 1947 and craved for direct connections with the mother country. Books, film music, religious material and even other goods like clothes trickled in, brought in by canny traders who knew how to circumvent the system, but what the South Africans wanted was people.
In the 1970s, some cultural troupes came from India and even Pakistan, but then, in 1978, came a moment that was historic. The great singer Mohammed Rafi was brought to an adoring South African Indian public in May of that year.
As we remember the 40th anniversary of Rafi’s death this year, I am reminded of my family’s direct involvement in helping arrange that ground-breaking tour. At the time South Africans of colour – black Africans, mixed-race descendants (called “coloureds”) and the descendants of Indian migrants – still chafed under restrictive racial laws and so the sheer logistics of attempting to bring one of India’s greatest musicians to our shores was a remarkable feat.
South Africa was then persona non grata in the world community and India was still largely a closed economy. Indian artists had only recently begun their tentative forays out of the country on international tours. Tours and visas were difficult to arrange.
Lata Mangeshkar’s 1974 tour required months of high-level discussions between Indian civil servants and their British counterparts. Our experience of bringing Rafi in South Africa also required the blessings of various Indian and South African bureaucrats.
Also read: After T.M. Krishna, It Could Well Be Mohammed Rafi or Lata Mangeshkar
Delhi and apartheid Pretoria did not have diplomatic relations with each other. India’s position had been pretty much constant since 1947 and later, as apartheid became entrenched, India took the lead in shining an international spotlight on Pretoria’s policies towards all people of colour.
For the minority Indian community – numbering close to a million by the 1970s’, and at the forefront of political opposition to apartheid – it also had an unfortunate secondary effect of limiting cultural ties to our historic homeland and in the process creating a sense of loss and yearning.
One thing which apartheid was not able to obliterate completely was an entrepreneurial spirit in many local Indians. My family had become involved in entertainment in the 1950s’, through a chain of cinemas in Durban. My grandfather and other entrepreneurs with the Billimoria brothers of Bombay (who were significant players in the Indian film industry) in persuading the government of India to add films to a list of “acceptable” cultural items exempt from sanctions, along with books and music. As a result, we were able to show Indian films to a grateful public.
By the early 1970s’, it’s no exaggeration to say that cinemas were the cultural mainstay of our community and playback singers in Hindi films like Lata Mangeshkar and Mohammed Rafi had a huge following. Within the country, it was a time of intense civil strife and political agitation in the face of an increasingly brutal government clampdown. Yet culturally, people needed an outlet. Denied agency by their own government, it is unsurprising that many in my community looked beyond the ocean to draw inspiration and reaffirm their sense of pride.
My father, Mahmoud (known as Mamoo) remembers: “We’d tried for several years to work out a way for Rafi to come. Initially, we tried to apply to the Indian embassy in Port Louis (in Mauritius, which did have diplomatic relations with India). We all supported political sanctions, which was noble, but often the cultural boycotts were lumped in with it – and hurt the very people the Indian government were trying to help.”
In a sense, the Indian government’s reluctance was understandable. Without a diplomatic presence to manage things, could they really risk the loss of face which could occur were they to allow an Indian citizen of global stature to travel there, only for such a person to be harassed by the racist authorities or worse, assaulted? They had no way of knowing that in reality, the apartheid government had no interest in local Indian community affairs or their cultural practices.
In 1975, my family had worked with others to bring Pakistan’s Sabri Brothers to Durban, where they performed to thousands of adoring fans and then subsequently returned for two further tours.
Also read: Ten Moods of the Master, Mohammed Rafi
The Tamilian devotional singer, Pithukuli Murugudas had earlier performed at our cinema to acclaim. But somehow, one sensed that there was a yearning for someone of true national stature who could serve as affirmation of the civilisational genius of the subcontinent; a MS Subbalakshmi, for example… or a Rafi. But as India’s most distinguished and famous male playback singer, for a Rafi tour to happen would need a diplomatic imprimatur at the highest levels to break the impasse.
Enter Gora Koradia. The Karodia family were wealthy businessmen and entrepreneurs, part of a wave of Gujarati traders who, since Gandhi’s time, had largely opened up the hinterland of the country.
He proposed a partnership. He had the necessary contacts in India and deep pockets while my father, as an advocate, presumably had the legal nous. Together, perhaps some alchemy was possible. And so early in 1978, the pair made contact with Rafi’s son who lived in London, persuading the great man himself of the merits of a possible tour. Rafi himself knew South Africa and its connection to Gandhi and aware of a large community which had grown since the Mahatma’s time and which loved his music. “He was definitely keen”, Mahmoud recalls, “but also bemused by the whole idea, as if he knew we’d never convince the relevant decision-makers.”
Unfazed, the pair travelled to Bombay, setting up camp at the Taj in anticipation of a long haul.
This was the era of cooling one’s heels in lobbies and waiting rooms waiting for officials, of mindless paperwork and arcane minutiae so beloved by babus. “But such was Gora’s skill that by the first afternoon, we were already sitting in the office of the Chief Passport Controller,” recalls Mahmoud.
“The man himself was pretty candid. After I related to him the nature of our request, he told us quite matter-of-factly, ‘I am afraid that is impossible. It is a decision that has to come from New Delhi.’”
“Whether it was Gora’s generosity that worked, or whether the man genuinely felt that it would be good for Rafi to travel to South Africa, I’m still uncertain. But he did offer as a passing shot, ‘Here is the private telephone number of the Joint Secretary to the External Ministry, Mr K.K. Bhargava. Although Mr Bhargava will not be in a position to see you, he will take a call,”
Back at the Taj, my father began to get that despondent feeling they had been duped, and that the phone number was a ruse to get rid of them. But what did they have to lose?
“A highly cultured voice answered. Mr Bhargava was most courteous. He indicated as a government employee he was obliged to continue the conversation and hear my request out. What followed was a Hegelian debate over the phone that went on for something like 90 minutes on the appropriateness of the Indian government’s decision not to engage with South Africa in allowing one of their cultural ambassadors to visit and perform.
We agreed apartheid was an evil policy and that the local Indian population took succour from India’s stance. But I made an impassioned case that Delhi owed it to her diaspora to think creatively about how best to support them.”
Also read: When Muhammad Ali Came to Bombay and Floored the City
Over the course of those 90 minutes, Mahmoud was able to persuade the civil servant it was wrong to think that any revenue created from such a tour would somehow benefit Pretoria, or the white population. “I sensed I had his ear. But one important concern remained. What safeguards did the Indian government have regarding Rafi’s physical and emotional safety – after all, would he not be pushed off the pavement when approaching whites? And surely he would be denied hospitality at the best hotels and restaurants?”
Mahmoud denied that Rafi would ever encounter such humiliation, or, heinous as Pretoria was, that the singer would not be allowed to stay in a hotel suitable to his position due to his status as an international traveller. Legal help and the strong support of local Indians would ensure that.
“I must have chewed his ear off. The long conversation came to an abrupt end by Mr Bhargava telling me he had heard enough, and that he’d been persuaded to allow an endorsement on the singer’s passport to enable him to travel to the country.”
Four days later, the necessary permission was given to the Bombay office. Amazingly, the visa permit was extended for two weeks; enough time for double weekend shows in Durban as well as for performances in both Johannesburg and Cape Town.
A relieved Rafi welcomed the newly created impresarios to his Bandra bungalow on 28th Road where a contract was hastily signed in the presence of his manager, his brother-in-law Zahir Bari.
It was Mahmoud’s first physical meeting with the great man himself, someone who had loomed so large in his consciousness for so long. “What struck me was how diffident he was; almost shy and always respectful. He seemed happy to answer only if you ventured a question first; otherwise he didn’t feel the need to command the room. If you didn’t know what he had achieved in life and how many people’s lives he touched, you’d never have guessed it.”
In terms of the contract, Rafi would be accompanied by an entourage of 15 people, including his wife Bilquis and Zahir.
Rafi had been irked by Lata Mangeshkar’s claim of having sung more songs than anyone else and throughout the South African tour, Bijnori would introduce him as “the singer with 26,000 songs under his belt!”
In May, the South African Airways flight from London touched down in Johannesburg and a nervous Mahmoud and Gora greeted the visiting contingent before flying with them to Durban. “Actually, it was Rafi who seemed anxious. He’d obviously been told stories of the country which were stereotypes difficult to shake off.” Mahmoud had arranged for the mayor of Johannesburg – a white man – to greet him, something which would have served to calm nerves.
Once in Durban, preparations began on setting up the acoustics at the Shah Jehan, our family cinema which, as the largest cinema in the southern hemisphere, could seat 2100.
Rafi and the entourage stayed at the sea-facing Blue Waters Hotel on Durban’s Marine Parade. During his stay, many locals visited him, and he was most amenable and friendly. But he still couldn’t shake off the apprehension of being accosted by a white man, and so tended to prefer either being ensconced in his hotel room or at our family home rather than explore Durban or the beachfront, except going out once in Cape Town.
Also read: The Rafi Protest in Mumbai is Yet Another Contrived Controversy Against a Big Bollywood Film
“He was a true gentleman. As long as he had good food, he was comfortable and his demands were never excessive. He was here to sing and reach out to the community.”
The shows were an unmitigated success, with tickets at affordable rates. All the four shows in Durban were sold out, as were the performance in Cape Town and Johannesburg. A secondary market soon emerged for selling tickets at a premium.
Because musical shows were still in their infancy, they were not yet the extravaganzas of later years. It was a simple format, with Rafi in the middle of stage, behind a stand upon which lay his harmonium. Saxophone, guitar, dholak and tabla players flanked him. No background images had been created, just the singer and his musicians. He sang for two and a half hours, and while he did occasionally take requests, he stuck to his repertoire with poplar songs like Kya Hua Tera Wada, but also Madhuban Mein Radhikan Nache Re, Chaudvin Ka Chand and Mere Mereboob Tujhe.
My aunt Zeenath, who was there for the first performance in Durban remarked how small he looked in the flesh. “Against that huge cinema screen, with the velvet curtains drawn in front of it, he cut a tiny figure. We’d imagined a “Yahoo!” type personality, like Shammi Kapoor. The hours just flew by.”
Years later, I grew up on memories and recollections of the shows. How he never held back when singing O Duniya Ke Rakhwale, the bhajan set in Raga Darbari which required his voice to reach for the heavens at its climax. How he was able to seamlessly glide from a quietly smouldering Dilip Kumar song to a flashy Dev Anand one, and back again. He didn’t sing any of his non-filmi ghazals, which the true connoisseurs craved, but for everyone else it was perfection.
And suddenly, it was over.
Tours from Indian artists have since happened with monotonous regularity, complete with glitzy dancing, fantastic light shows and fancy camera work. Performers have charisma and are expected to interact with their audiences and package their event in a far more sophisticated way. The 1978 tour was positively dowdy by comparison. But the soul of the music itself was pure, and that surely counts for something. For years afterwards, tapes recorded from the second show have remained in great demand. Mohamed Rafi playing to rapturous audiences may be just a footnote in the long history of subcontinental relations with pre – and post-apartheid South Africa – but what a charming footnote it is; a song well sung.
Kalim Rajab is a writer based in Johannesburg, South Africa. His most recent book was A Man of Africa, published by Penguin.